Lisbon

Lisbon earned its popularity honestly. The architecture is remarkable, the light is extraordinary, the food and wine are excellent, and the city has a distinctive melancholy character built around fado music and the idea of saudade. The problem is that 'undiscovered gem' press coverage compounded for a decade has made it one of Europe's most visited cities while its infrastructure has not always kept pace. The historic tram routes are now primarily tourist attractions rather than functional transport. Central Alfama in August feels less like an neighbourhood and more like a walking tour with bars in it.